GastronomyYumee. Where Cuisines Meet
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A taco lover knows they've hit the nail on the head when the juices come together in perfect harmony and the sauce drips through your fingers as you bite into them.
Author: Aina Coll
Photographer: Jaume Oliver
This is the story of how an old mechanic workshop converted into a restaurant since 2018 becomes a pleasant and delicious coincidence. Because yes, we came to Es Taller in Valldemossa by fate and, as we can tell you, we are in love with their dishes, the place as such and the atmosphere.
The open-plan dining room at Es Taller conveys a certain industrial air thanks to the reused furniture and the cement floor, which coexist with the old signage of the workshop – closed due to retirement. Past and present make up the scenery, the light, which enters through the windows that overlook the restaurant's own orchard, are a beautiful backdrop.
When we arrived, Es Taller was full of locals and foreigners, but we got a table next to the window, from where we could see the restaurant's vegetable garden and enjoy beautiful views of the mountains. We take a look around and at the bar we detect two Made in Mallorca brands that we know well: the Adalt brewery and the classic among the classic Puig soft drink brand.
As soon as we look at the menu, we sense that in the kitchen of Es Taller local produce is combined with culinary traditions near and far away, as almonds, sobrasada, figs and Mallorcan lamb coexist with Sri Lankan curry, papaya salad and Peruvian tuna tartare. This fusion reaches the wine list, among which we find proposals from here - such as the reds of Son Crespí and Soca Rel - that coexist with Riojas, Riberas and even an Argentinian wine, Catena Paraje Altamira 2020.
We ordered a glass of Mallorcan white wine, an always refreshing Puig lemon and lime, and water while we decided to order. In the kitchen of Es Taller, led by the Argentinian chef Nicolás Gago Aubert, we find tapas to snack on and share, and individual portions – many of them with vegan and vegetarian options. We decided to try a little bit of everything (what better way to discover a restaurant?) and created our own selection of dishes.
The croquettes of sobrasada, figs and tomato jam, with a scandalous homemade flavour, surprise us with their béchamel sauce – divine – and the crunchiness of the batter. We got off to a good start. Next, we tasted the crispy Thai duck curry, covered in coconut milk and accompanied by vegetables and basmati rice. The duck is fork tender when you prick the layer of skin, the characteristic dark color of the meat of this bird is revealed, and the first bite immediately transports us to Southeast Asia.
With barely time to catch a flight back, we go to Mexico: it's time for the Tajín taquitos of Mallorcan lamb with onions enchiladas, sour cream and cilantro. Generous tacos, filled with tremendous shredded lamb meat. A taco lover knows they've hit the nail on the head when the juices blend in harmony and the sauce drips through your fingers as you bite into them. And that’s what happend to us! A delight.
The last journey takes us back to the island: a generous piece of boneless Mallorcan piglet served on a bed of creamy mushroom and artichoke rice. Tender and tasty, with rice cooked just right, it melts in our mouths and reminds us of what the local product tastes like, the product from here.
The landing is shaped like a homemade tartar and tastes like ricotta and white chocolate, honey and nuts. A sweet and delicious option that puts an end to an unexpected experience that has turned out to be a journey with ingredients from here and there cooked with care and intelligence. You know what they say: coincidences don't exist.
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