Mercat de Capdepera

Economic and social epicenter

The market stalls, full of seasonal fruit- melon yellow, watermelon green- fill Plaça d'Orient with color.

Author: Aina Coll

Photographer: Jaume Oliver

Traditional markets have historically and everywhere in the world fulfilled two functions: on the one hand, to supply the neighbors with the fruit of the work of local producers. On the other hand, they have always been a meeting point for members of the same community. Precisely because of this double facet, these places are also the ideal place in which to open up to a culture. How else to discover what is harvested in a region if it is not in the little stop of a peasant? What other enclave is more suitable to know the crafts in the area than in a square that gathers the work of local artisans?

As there aren't many things we like more than enjoying the authentic atmosphere of a village and soaking up with the traditions of Mallorca, one summer morning, around 9:30 am, we drove to Capdepera. Here we parked the car in the parking lot next to Plaça d'Orient and when we looked up we were able to admire an incomparable postcard image, with a spectacular castle of the XIV century as the protagonist, welcoming us to the municipality. We went to the square and the little stops along the way indicated clearly that we were in the right place: it is Wednesday, market day in the town.

One of the things that strikes us about the Capdepera market is that it has managed to maintain the same relaxed atmosphere as always. Perhaps because it is not as crowded as other markets on the island during the summer season and, as we soon realize, the typical stalls coexist with the terraces of the bars, very lively thanks to the parishioners who browse the newspaper while enjoying their first coffee.

Among the shadows cast by the trees in the square, which make the intense heat somewhat more bearable, a large carpet of plants and flowers welcomes us. It is the first stop, which gives way to another one of fruits and vegetables, mostly local, which at this hour is the one that gathers the most customers. However, it is not the only one: two other stalls full of seasonal fruit - melon yellow, watermelon green- fill the square with color. The sausages and the essential stall of olives and Mediterranean pickles complete the gastronomic offer of the mercat.

We walk along the street perpendicular to Plaça d'Orient, which completes the market with local crafts, toys for the little ones and some summer clothing and accessories, and after a look around, we return to the square to stock up our senalla (Traditional Mallorcan basket) with vegetables and a varied mix of preserves. In the center, the villagers form small groups and chat, relaxed and lively; children play and some early morning tourists browse among the stalls while, like us, fill their baskets with fresh produce. It is the life of the market, the life of simple pleasures.

Before saying goodbye to Capdepera, we chose a terrace and sat at one of the few free tables available to get some strength back with a good breakfast. While waiting for our berenar, the castle captured our attention again and we noted an unavoidable date in our calendar: in mid-May, Capdepera will be transformed, as usual, into a large medieval market. A fair that lasts for three days and brings together artisans of traditional trades (palm heart, iron, ceramics and fur, among others) and that, we are assured, leaves all those who visit it speechless. We will have to discover it -and tell about it- in first person.