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With a nothern flavor

We are sure that many grandmothers would approve of La Vasca's elaborations, and would do so for both flavor and presentation.

Author: Joan Ramis Boscana

We cannot deny that the district of Bonaire is one of the areas that generates greater attraction in Palma. We find establishments in its streets where we could spend long hours; its philosophy and its products are aligned with our cause. We could go into Uco Bakery to take home some of their bread selection, buy some dessert in the pastry shop Lluís Pérez to treat ourselves. This noon, however, we prefer to sit on the terrace of La Molienda to indulge in their coffee, because few places prepare it with such an intense flavor. The chat goes on because it is good and, almost accidentally, it is the time to have lunch. It is enough to raise our eyes and see the sign of La Vasca, a restaurant that opened in 2018 to make us realize that Palma, as Mallorcan as it is, opens its arms to the cuisine from all around Spain. And that is always a reason to rejoice. 

The place is packed to the rafters, crammed with a clientele whose conversations fill a space that has an contagious ambiance. We have to make our way to the bar, just a few meters from the entrance. When we ask the waiter where we can sit, he tells us that he has a table for three downstairs, and with his finger he points to a staircase we had not even noticed. We go down and the space surprises us with its proportions. We did not expect that the place set up by Mariana López and Fernando Iboleón would have such a well-kept secret. Already in the basement, we are greeted by a vertical garden at whose feet rest some baskets of fruit and vegetables. They look like an offering. At the back of the room, a glass window invites us to observe how the staff of La Vasca works in the kitchen. This transparency can also be seen in the stairwell we have descended, where they store a well loaded wine portfolio.  

 

The name of this restaurant says it all about the dishes we are going to taste. And as if that were not enough, the words "northern cuisine" that also appear on the sign, underline its nature. For a moment we are plagued by doubt: we do not know whether to opt for a daily menu special with a more than economical price or for a selection from the general restaurant menu that is a pleasure just to read it. But as we are three people and we have come to play, the restaurant menu is the one who wins the duel for its infinite number of dishes. The gastronomy that is cooked in La Vasca exudes traditional air, some classics that for any Mallorcan sound almost exotic due to its geographical remoteness. We start with a trio of gildas laying on a piece of bread, two of them skewered next to a slice of Manchego cheese. We gobble them down and wake up suddenly. Our senses are activated like a spring to appreciate the variety of customers, the smell coming from the kitchen, the skylights that cast halos of light on the tables. La Vasca begins to excite us and we give a pleasant, pickle-flavored gasp. 

It is just after that when a succession of dishes start arriving that transport us directly into northern lands. The first is a small casserole with txistorra from Navarra accompanied by quail eggs. The ingredients of this dish are tossed in their own juice, a mixture that we taste so that the paprika and garlic hit our palate and knock us out of the game. Are we in Pamplona or are we in Mallorca? As we try to answer that question, out of nowhere three corn tortillas show up, enveloping a low-temperature roasted knuckle. Does it come alone? No way. The codillo has piparra, red onion and lamb's lettuce. It's just a little bit spicy and tastes really good. The sauce is so light that it doesn't even soak our hands, something we are grateful for so as not to stain the llengües napkins on the table.  

After having split in three a spider crab piquillo pepper that was not enough for us to fill up - delicious, perfectly served -, a  Biscayan style codfish is added to the banquet, placing us once again in the north of the Basque Country. The sauce asks for bread and we of course give it to it, the chorizo bell pepper asks for pampering and we undoubtedly give it to it as well. We are sure that many grandmothers would approve the elaborations of La Vasca, and they would do it both for flavor and presentation. They would nod with pride at the sight of the veal cheek with truffled mashed potatoes, which could not be more tender or juicy. A fabulous closing to the meal followed by a cheesecake and a cream puff pastry that deserve all the applause. This is authentic cuisine.