GastronomyYumee. Where Cuisines Meet
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We believe that the memories and emotions stored in this space give the dishes a heartwarming flavor.
Author: Joan Ramis Boscana
Photographer: Jaume Oliver
In the center of Mallorca, an activity intimately tied to tradition is concentrated. When we want to reconnect with our roots, we drive to the heart of the island and reclaim our essence. Today, we want to reaffirm our Mallorcan identity through gastronomy. We aim to delve into the local produce used at Joan Marc Restaurant, a venue that has earned a well-deserved reputation in Inca, its birthplace.
The restaurant opens its doors right in front of Plaça des Blanquer, a square surrounded by a collection of cypress trees that inspire the restaurant's décor. Wood is the main element in the furniture, a material that adds as much warmth as the staff who move between the tables. As soon as we sit down, Joan Marc, the mind behind this project, approaches us. With the enthusiasm of a passionate soul, he tells us that this place was once the shop run by his parents, where he grew up as they served their regular customers. Years have passed, and that store, full of memories, has been transformed into a temple where Mallorcan gastronomy is celebrated. The child who once ran through its rooms is now the chef in charge of the kitchen. This brings Joan Marc immense joy.
Before we are served the eight-course tasting menu, we take in the surroundings. Daylight pours in through large windows, bathing the furniture. The atmosphere balances between rustic charm and elegance as diners begin to occupy their seats. A pair of cypress trunks, almost reaching the ceiling, match the bar at Joan Marc Restaurant, carved in wood and overflowing with bottles, glasses, books, and a few siurells. On the other side, we can see an open kitchen where miracles happen; we believe that the memories and emotions stored in this space lend a warm, nostalgic flavor to the dishes. We are about to find out.
We begin with tubers in turmeric broth, perfect for combating the winter that is just starting. From the thick liquid, we retrieve pieces of celery, beetroot, and sweet potato that would have remained at the bottom, making their way to our mouths to reveal their powerful flavor. The second dish melts in our mouth, and we dissolve into praise: the figatella with spicy sauce and olives trencades melts on our taste buds. The quality of the products is undeniable. The same can be said of the noodles with llampuga (dorado) and a garlic and parsley pesto. A dish that leaves a pleasant spicy aftertaste in our palate, a memory we revisit when feeling nostalgic. It has a very Mallorcan flavor.
The next dish combines the wonders of the sea with the secrets of the mountains: serviola (jackfish) with vegetables and marinated boletus mushrooms. The flavors compete for our attention, and we give it to them to confirm that the combination is interesting, with ingredients destined to harmonize. The same happens with the slow-cooked veal, which almost melts on the plate, its tenderness contrasted by the crispiness of chestnuts, which pair wonderfully. Not to mention the first dessert that arrives: homemade ricotta made from fresh cow's milk. Joan Marc himself brings it to us served on a board, and gives us the choice to pair it with olives trencades or jam with nuts. We opt for the jam, which is a true hit.
We're still savoring the flavors when a poached pear with cream tempts us. We make room in our stomachs for its caramelized taste to sweeten our mouths. And just when we think the feast is over, a coffee and caramel mousse with dried figs and herbal liquor provides an incomparable farewell. This has been a banquet made with products anyone could have in their pantry. Succulent simplicity.
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