Casa Miss

A variat icon

The portions are generous, the produce is fresh and homemade, and the recipes are a tribute to the recognizable flavor of this island. The Casa Miss variat is, without a doubt, roots, authenticity and tradition.

Author: Aina Coll

Photographer: Jaume Oliver

Arroz brut, sopes or tumbet, to name just three delicacies of Mallorcan culinary tradition, are emblems in their own right. Famous and recognized, they fill the blackboards that dictate the daily menus in the bars and cellers of the island, and of course also the pots of our kitchens. However, there is one dish – a plate of dishes, to be more exact – that occupies the throne of culinary Mallorcanness. Maybe it's because of its concept, maybe because of its flavor, because of its succulence or because it doesn't leave anyone indifferent. And even less so to those who receive it at the table to try it for the first time.

The variat has always been a difficult option to refuse for berenar, a breakfast that on the island lasts until lunchtime. However, for some time now it has also worked (why not?) as a substitute for lunch and even, for those who dare to have a succulent portion, for dinner. At Casa Miss, in Sa Pobla, they know the secret of the variat's success all too well, as they have been cooking and serving it since 1967 in their premises in Plaça Constitució.

Around twelve o'clock, the patrons of the Pobler bar come and go. Some have a quick coffee at the bar, others a beer at the table. Some savor a tapa while looking at the clock and others, like us today, indulge in the pleasure of devouring a variat and taking our time.

Classic, emblematic and familiar – the Mir family has been running Casa Miss since it opened its doors behind an iconic façade in burgundy and gold – as soon as you enter, you know you have entered a place full of past and personality: the mirrors – floor to ceiling – an interesting jukebox of yesteryear and, the closeness and trust shared by the workers and regulars of the place.

In front of the bar with display cases full of the portions that make up the variat, we are clear that today there is no other option for lunch other than the combination of smells, flavors and textures that spreads before our eyes: fried seafood, pica pica, lengua, lomo in sauce and ensaladilla rusa (Olivier salad), all together in one dish. And on top of that here the variats are also served in Llonguet.

The Casa Miss variat is a reason for pilgrimage to Sa Pobla for people who live anywhere on the island and when you taste the first bite you know why. The portions are generous, the produce is fresh and homemade, and the recipes are a tribute to the recognizable flavor of this island. The Casa Miss variat is, without a doubt, roots, authenticity and tradition.

But the pleasure of giving us this rich and copious feast does not end here. To accompany it, we also choose the typical drink of the place: Casa Miss's homemade vermouth, Miss Vermut. An elegant signature vermouth – which is also served, optionally, with orange foam – made with Premsal and macerated with local plants, herbs and spices. A great pleasure that blends perfectly with the variat and that won the award for best vermouth in the Balearic Islands at the last Vinari Awards. They know what they’re talking about.

The Mallorcan variat – that dish of dishes – is past and heritage, present and custom, pleasure and rejoicing. It is the flavour and aroma of Mallorca. And after enjoying -and very much so- our lunch in a legendary house like Casa Miss, which continues to prepare it in its kitchens with the respect with which it has been doing it all its life, we agree that yes, we understand that those who see this dish for the first time are overwhelmed. But rest assured, you only need to taste one as exquisite as this one to realize that if the variat continues to fill the tables of the bars on the island is not by chance.