Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo

A Very Sweet Tradition

There are few gestures on the island as Christmas-like as this: sitting down at Can Joan de s’Aigo, cutting a piece of steaming ensaimada, and dipping it, without hesitation, in hot chocolate.

Author: Aina Coll

Photographer: Jaume Oliver

An establishment is said to be iconic when it is significant and representative of a place, whether because of its culinary offering, its history, or how deeply rooted it is in society. Without a doubt, the adjective fits Can Joan de s’Aigo perfectly: its menu is a tribute to the classic sweet and savory dishes of Mallorcan cuisine, its history is anything but boring or indifferent—it dates back three centuries—and its idiosyncrasy has led to a daily procession of loyal patrons who, at any time of day, gather promptly at one of its locations.

It's always a good day to go to breakfast at Can Joan de s’Aigo, but when the calendar marks that we are on the doorstep of Christmas, the visit becomes unmissable. At 9:00 a.m. on a weekday, we enter the branch on Baró de Santa Maria del Sepulcre, or, in other words, we step into a temple of delight and joy that tastes like tradition.

Among large paintings of still lifes and landscapes, chandeliers, and velvet burgundy sofas, we are here to enjoy. The somewhat baroque decoration blends perfectly with the classic, dark uniforms of the waiters, who seem to have worked here forever, delighting us with hot chocolate and irresistible ensaimadas.

The glass display case over a wooden bar that presides over Can Joan de s’Aigo is pure temptation, an invitation to succumb to the wide array of local products: cocarrois, panades, and all kinds of savory coques coexist with the essentials of our pastry tradition: gató, cremadillos, crespells, coca de cuarto, and coca de patata. Quite a spread.

A feast of homemade creations calls for our indulgence as we scan the menu, just in case we've missed something. For a moment, we consider ordering some artisan ice creams—another emblem of the place—but the cold has finally arrived on the island, and there’s no better excuse to indulge in a rich cup of hot chocolate, which we pair as tradition dictates: with an ensaimada and a portion of cuarto, which arrive quickly at our table, well-dusted with sugar, as they should be.

There are few gestures on the island as Christmas-like as this: sitting down at Can Joan de s’Aigo, cutting a piece of steaming ensaimada, and dipping it, without hesitation, in hot chocolate. It’s a sweet act—very, very sweet—that makes each Christmas you've experienced parade, one by one, before your eyes. Memories, images, lights, gifts, and lots of magic condense into this little moment of pleasure that comforts, soothes, and embraces.

Can Joan de s’Aigo was one of the first chocolate shops in Europe, but its fame is due to much more than its long history. The connection that has been created between the establishment (which has two other locations, one on Carrer Can Sanç and another on Carrer del Sindicat) is undoubtedly its best calling card. So much so that, on Christmas Eve, many families visit, year after year, to enjoy chocolate with ensaimada, a tradition that lasts throughout the winter. It’s a custom, and never has a custom been so delicious. Let’s celebrate it.